On September 12, 1953, Jacqueline Bouvier said "I do" to John F. Kennedy in a lavish ceremony in Newport, Rhode Island. The wedding, celebrated before nearly 600 guests at St. Mary's Church and more than 1,000 at the reception at Jackie's family estate, will go down in history not only for its social splendor, but also for the wedding dress that inspired an entire generation.

 

A dress that became an icon

Jackie's dress was designed by Ann Lowe , an African-American seamstress who was then little known in the elite fashion world. Made of ivory silk taffeta, it was distinguished by a soft off the shoulder neckline that gracefully framed the face, fitted short sleeves, and above all a voluminous skirt made of more than 50 meters of fabric.The skirt was adorned with hand-appliquéd floral motifs, giving the gown its sculptural, refined allure.

Every detail reflected Ann Lowe’s artistry:

• A tailor-made piece, designed to flatter Jackie's slender figure.

• Invisible finishes, demonstrating a couture know-how rarely associated with American wedding dresses of the period.

• A subtle balance between tradition (volume, ornaments) and modernity (purity of lines).

 

A Near-Disaster

Just ten days before the wedding, disaster struck: a flood destroyed the original dress in Ann Lowe's studio. With incredible determination, Lowe and her team started from scratch, recreating the dress in just eight days.

Yet despite this achievement, her name remained largely absent from media narratives. Due to the systemic racism of the time, Ann Lowe was kept in the shadows. Her work was only recognized much later, after her death, gradually rehabilitating her place in fashion history.

 

Jackie's Opinion

Although the dress was designed by Ann Lowe, the initial design was dictated by the Kennedy family, who desired a traditional, sweeping silhouette. Lowe translated these wishes into a spectacular couture work, faithful to the family's expectations but not necessarily to Jackie's personal taste.

Privately, Jackie wasn't entirely fond of her dress. She found the collar too stiff and the skirt too imposing. Her tastes leaned toward simpler, cleaner lines. But despite her reservations, the dress caused a sensation and had a lasting influence on bridal fashion.

 

The wedding day

The ceremony was marked by a solemn atmosphere: Jackie was accompanied by her father-in-law, Hugh Auchincloss, and the Ave Maria was sung by the tenor Luigi Vena. Even Pope Pius XII sent a personal blessing.

The reception, held at Hammersmith Farm, was attended by over 1,000 guests. The wedding cake, a five-tiered masterpiece, was shared in a social and joyful atmosphere. It was an event worthy of 1950s American high society, widely covered by Life Magazine .

Inheritance of a dress

While Jackie didn't adore every detail of her dress, history has remembered its brilliance. The photos published in Life transformed her outfit into a timeless symbol of the American wedding. Thousands of young women dreamed of a similar dress, making the "Jackie" style a bridal standard for decades to come.

Even today, the dress is considered one of the most famous in history. Housed at the JFK Library and Museum , it remains a landmark in bridal fashion. And the story of Ann Lowe, who recreated it in a hurry and remained in the shadows because of its origin, resonates as a tribute to the invisible hands behind couture masterpieces.